Thursday, June 15 – Greenleaf to Galehead: “The hardest stretch of the AT in the Whites”
We wake to sunshine breaking through thick clouds and a clear view of the summit of Lafayette. Watch as over the next hour the fog descends and we’re not able to see a thing outside. However, it looks like only a chance of rain and thunderstorms, which is often the forecast up here. The winds are down and temperatures up.
I step outside to stretch as the winter wren’s song goes on and on and on again. What a gift to wake to sun and clouds lit by what appears as an interior light.
A hermit thrush’s plaintive call. The murmur of running water in the stream. Something stirs the water in the pond.
The fog rolls in and the view is obscured in dense white fog.
I have lived so many days like this pining for the clouds to part and the sun to shine bright. Today, I truly enjoy the wonder of the weather that is. It appears that the fog and cloud will come and go as will we.
We set out and up. At last through the mist, we come to the top of Lafayette and seek shelter from the wind again in the stone remnants of the hotel. After a quick drink and snack, we’re soon off moving down to keep warm. The trail winds over the ridge by shadowy cairns in the fog and then descends into the dark woods below. Yes, everyone’s feeling good when we reach the Skookumchuck Trail. No need to choose this bail-out route. We’re committed now and head off to Galehead.
It’s a long slow climb up Garfield. Pocket views along the way through the clouds in the valley below and of edge of the Pemi Ridge we’re following.
On our descent, we pass a worn-out looking family of four. The two teenage girls tell us the worst part is ahead.
Around the next bend, a trail runner in shorts and tee shirt, water bottle in hand beams, “You’re almost there!” (The hut in fact is three miles away.).
I guess what’s ahead all depends on your perspective.
We’re doing okay until the trail turns and a waterfall appears off to our right. I step across the stream to see where the trail leads on the other side. No sign of a trail over here. As I turn back I see clearly the white blaze on the tree part way down the waterfall. You’ve got to be kidding – the trail can’t go down the waterfall. Of course, they are not kidding.
You can stand and wait and overthink. Of you can grab hold of a tree, swing yourself around to the ledge below and work down tree hold by tree hold from there. All the while water rushing beside you over glossy slick rocks.
Pat later says it’s the second most scary thing she’s experienced on the AT. The most scary, the Beaver Brook Trail off of Moosilauke which she and I slowly descended over four hours last fall. We both slipped and sat hard that afternoon and Pat took a true rolling tumble. This precipitous trail, the roar of the waterfall has both of us back there on Beaver Brook.
Thankfully, we all make it down safely. Then head up and down and down and up through the trees and a long ascent up to what I sure hope is the Galehead Hut. Instead, at the crest of the ridge, a view of what sure looks like a hut on the ridge beyond us. So down and up we go again and half an hour later arrive weary and wet.
The hut is packed tonight. 40-something wet guests crammed into the narrow bunk rooms. We each find a bunk, change out of our wet gear and go in search of something to eat.
Lasagna loaded with cheese, slabs of thick garlic bread, an abundant salad and over-the-top massive and delicious oatmeal chocolate chip cookies. We each stash one away for our hike tomorrow.
I am beyond exhausted but play cards to stay awake for a bit before heading to bed. Sullen, sweaty, quiet, worn through. One more day and our great adventure comes to a close. Perhaps that’s why I’m so worn. Or perhaps because we left before 8 this morning and arrived here at 4:45. All day I watched my moods go up and down, my mind chase passing clouds and glimmers of bright sun.
The bunk room is stuffy with 12 of us packed in the long narrow room. Especially stuffy up here on the top bunk. But I’m lying down and warm and wouldn’t want to be anyplace else.
Is it the hardest part of the AT in the Whites? If so, we did it. If not, we can meet the challenge.
Navigating Through Change 